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Common Installation Questions: Tile Order, Leveling Legs, Subfloor, Panels, Drain Size and the Outdoor Test

Updated September 2026

The most common walk-in tub installation questions have short answers: the tub goes in first, directly on the level subfloor, and the wall finish comes afterward so that tile or panels overlap the flange and deck. The leveling legs adjust only up to their limit screw, every foot must sit solidly on the floor, all panels come off before the tub is carried, and the tub should be filled and run before it is boxed in. Those five rules answer most of the installation questions that reach support, and the details are below. The full requirements checklist and the step-by-step leveling guide are separate articles; this one is the quick-answer companion to them.

Tile First or Tub First?

Tub first. Set the tub on the finished, level subfloor, level it, connect it and test it, then finish the walls. Ella tubs do not ship with a tile flange on the deck, so the installer adds an aftermarket flange: any rustproof, waterproof strip about 5 inches tall (acrylic, thin stainless or fiberglass, 1/8 or 3/16 inch thick) glued with 100 percent silicone so it overlaps the tub edge by about 2 inches. The tile or wall panel then overlaps the flange and the deck, and every joint is caulked with silicone. This is the standard way to waterproof any Ella tub once it is in place, and tile flange and wall finishing covers it in full.

Can the Legs Go Up Another 2 Inches?

No. The shorter screw on each leveling leg is the limit screw, and the legs cannot be raised higher than that screw. The frame and threshold height are preset at the factory so the drain piping can pass under the tub and above the floor to reach the house drain. If your drain routing seems to need more height than the legs provide, talk with the team before making any change.

Level at the Corners, but the Door Sags Under Load

This is the most common cause of a door that closes freely when the tub is empty but binds or sags once someone steps in. A level laid across the deck will read level as long as the corner legs are firmly against the floor, even if the legs by the door are not all the way down. When a bather enters and the tub fills, the weight of the water pulls the unsupported section of the frame down and the door no longer meets the jamb. The fix is to bring every leg, and especially the legs beside the door and in the center, into firm contact with the floor with equal weight, then re-check level on all sides. A door that rubs the jamb usually means the tub is bowed down in the middle; extending the center leg opens the door frame back up, as explained in my door rubs the frame.

The video shows why: many Ella tubs have as many as eight leveling legs to spread the weight evenly. Check that each foot is securely on the ground; if any foot is off the floor the door will not seal correctly and can leak. Adjust each leg as needed, then check level on every side of the tub. All feet sitting securely on the floor is what guarantees proper door alignment and closure.

Panels Off Before Carrying

Yes, always. Remove the front apron or access panels and the end panel before the tub is moved, and lift only by the frame, never by the plumbing or the panels. On Standard and Zen tubs that is two panels; the Ultra family has four access panels; two-seat tubs also have toe kick plates. Air jets on the underside will break off if the tub is dragged or set down on them. Any time the tub is relocated later, the panels come off again. Doorway widths and the moving sequence are in our delivery inspection and moving guide.

Test It Outside, or Run the Pre-Installation Test

This Chicago-area Transfer 60 installation shows the sequence. On arrival the crate and packing are removed and the tub is inspected for shipping damage. All end and side panels come off before the tub goes inside. Whenever possible the tub is filled outside, all pumps are run, and the installer checks for leaks before the tub is drained, dried and moved in. Inside, the floor is modified for the oversized 2 inch drains; here the installer capped one side of the T-type dual drain and connected the other side to the house main. The 5 foot supply lines that ship with the Ella fast-fill faucet are connected to new shut-off valves placed where they can be reached. A licensed electrician adds the correct breakers and GFCI outlets. The tub is leveled on its adjustable legs, filled again with every pump running, checked thoroughly, and only then are the panels replaced and screwed on, with silicone applied as needed.

If an outdoor test is not practical, run the pre-installation water test on a flat surface before the walls close: wipe the door seal, close the drains, fill to 3 inches above the highest jet (or to the bottom of the grab bar on a soaking tub), let it stand 30 minutes and inspect, then run every electrical component on its rated circuit for another 30 minutes while you inspect the unions. A weeping union is an over-tightened or displaced O-ring; take it apart and reseat it.

Left-hand Ella Capri walk-in tub installed against a tiled wall with the front apron in place
A finished Capri installation. The tub went in first; the wall finish overlaps the flange and deck.

Drain Size

Ella's dual drain uses two oversized 2 inch drains with four T-type ports. Connect two ports (most common) or all four to the house drain. A 2 inch house drain is recommended for the fastest draining, but a T or Y fitting into an existing 1 1/2 inch drain also works; a Y is preferred because fewer turns mean faster flow. Cap the unused ports. Have a plumber verify that the house drain itself flows well before installation, because no tub drain can fix a slow house drain. Layouts for left and right doors, center drains, and slabs are in drain configurations and the house drain.

Electrical

All Ella walk-in tubs run on standard 110/120 volt household power on dedicated GFCI-protected 20 amp circuits installed by a licensed electrician. The number of circuits depends on the therapy package: one line for a single-pump package, two for combinations such as hydro plus microbubble or packages with the heated seat, and three for the full digital packages on the largest tubs. Outlets go inside the equipment compartment under the seat so the cords reach, and extension cords are never used. The exact count for your model and package is in electrical requirements by model.

Common Questions

Do the front legs need to be screwed down?
On the Standard, Zen and HomeCare the front legs are screwed into the subfloor. Every tub, regardless of model, requires that all legs touch the floor with equal weight and no gap under any leg, because a leg that is off the floor lets the frame sag under the weight of the water and the door no longer meets the jamb. Check level on every side of the tub after the legs are set.
Does an out-of-level tub affect the warranty?
Yes. An unlevel frame warps the shell and misaligns the door, and leaks caused by misleveling are not covered under the warranty. Bring every leg, including the ones beside the door and in the center, into firm contact with the floor and re-check level on all sides before the walls are closed in.
What if the alcove is longer than the tub?
Most tubs shorter than 60 inches ship with an extension panel that is cut on site to fit the walls. It rests on adjustable stainless shelf brackets that are part of the frame, so the finished installation closes the gap between the tub and the alcove wall. If your model or alcove is unusual, open a ticket with your model and the alcove dimensions and the team will advise.
Can the drains be recessed below the subfloor?
It is possible, but cutting the apron or end panel to make room voids the warranty on the altered parts. The frame and threshold height are preset at the factory so the drain piping can pass under the tub and above the floor to reach the house drain, so recessing is rarely necessary. Talk with the team before making any change if your drain routing seems to need it.
Should the door be left closed after delivery?
No. Leave it open when the tub is not in use so the silicone seal keeps its shape. The tub ships locked, and a seal that has deformed in shipping can be reshaped by squeezing it with your fingertips. The same habit of leaving the door open between uses applies once the tub is installed.
Can the tub sit on tile instead of the subfloor?
Yes. The tub can be set on the subfloor or on a finished tile floor, as long as the surface is level and rated to carry the tub, the water and the bather. Whichever surface you choose, the tub goes in first and the wall finish comes afterward so that tile or panels overlap the flange and deck.
Do I need to enlarge my 1 1/2 inch house drain?
No. A 2 inch house drain gives the fastest draining, but a T or Y fitting into an existing 1 1/2 inch drain also works, and a Y is preferred because fewer turns mean faster flow. Keep the run short and straight, cap the unused ports on the T-type body, and have a plumber verify that the house drain itself flows well, because no tub drain can fix a slow house drain.
Where do the installation instructions come from?
The installation manual for your door family and the spec sheet with rough-in dimensions are on the Downloads tab of the product page at ellasbubbles.com. If you need a copy sent, open a ticket with your model name and serial number and the team will send it. The requirements checklist and the leveling guide linked at the top of this article are the companion reading.
Will an alcove installation make service harder?
Not if the front apron and its access panels stay uncovered, because that is where the equipment is reached for service. It is also smart to add a wall access panel on the plumbing side so the connections behind the tub can be inspected later. Never pack insulation around the equipment.

For anything specific to your model, serial number or jetting package, open a ticket at ellasbubbles.com/support

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