Support Center / Installation & Leveling / The pre-installation water test: catch leaks before your walls are finished
Back to Installation & Leveling

The pre-installation water test: catch leaks before your walls are finished

Updated September 2026

The pre-installation water test is a required one hour check done before the walls are closed up: fill the tub, let it stand, run every electrical component, and inspect every connection. It is the single best insurance against opening finished walls later. Shipping vibration can loosen unions and air lines, and the water test catches all of it while everything is still easy to reach.

Watch: Installation Tips, Including the Fill Test

Walk-In Tubs Installation Tips and Recommendations
Chapters in this video
  1. 0:00 Pre-Installation Checks and Tips Before installation, the video emphasizes checking tub dimensions, inspecting for damage, and leak-testing the tub with water.
  2. 1:34 Dual Drain System Installation The video demonstrates how to install Ella's exclusive dual drain system, showing various configurations and recommending a two-inch house drain.
  3. 3:09 Leveling and Door Alignment The technician levels the tub, ensuring proper door alignment for a leak-proof seal, and advises leaving the door unlocked when not in use.
  4. 3:53 Water Supply and Electrical Connections The video shows connecting fast-fill faucets with three-quarter inch supply lines and emphasizes using GFCI-protected outlets and breakers for electrical connections.

Watch: Ellas Bubbles: Walk-In Tubs Installation Tips and Recommendations with chapters and a full transcript.

Our installation tips video walks through the whole sequence around the test: inspect for shipping damage, fill the tub with water outside the home to check for transit leaks, recheck all air, hydro, and electrical connections, level the tub so every foot carries weight, then fill the tub for an extended leak check and run the air, hydro, and electrical components for 20 minutes with a flashlight inspection of every union. The video suggests leaving the tub filled overnight if your schedule allows; the written procedure below is the required minimum.

The Required Test, Step by Step

  1. Place the tub on a flat, level surface. Confirm leveling first using our leveling guide, since an unlevel tub can leak at the door during the test.
  2. Wipe the door seal clean, then close the door.
  3. Tape the drains closed.
  4. Fill the tub to 3 inches above the highest jet. If your tub has no jets, fill to the bottom of the grab bar.
  5. Let the water stand for 30 minutes and inspect all around and underneath for any sign of water.
  6. Then run all electrical components on their rated 3-prong cords, plugged into separate outlets, for another 30 minutes, and inspect all unions and connections again while the pumps run.

Never start the pumps until the water covers all jets, since running a pump dry causes permanent damage that is not covered. The warranty activation form also has your installer confirm a watertight door seal after a 20 minute fill and watertight connections after running the hydro and air pumps for 20 minutes, so this test flows straight into activation.

Technician connecting braided water supply hoses to the fittings inside a walk-in tub access panel
Every union, supply connection, and air line is inspected through the access panels while the water stands and the pumps run.

If You Find a Drip at a Union

A leaking union at the pump or heater almost always means the union was over-tightened or the O-ring shifted. Disassemble the union, re-seat the O-ring, and reassemble it snugly. At the heater, also verify the heater threads match the pipe threads. This is a normal install-stage adjustment, not a defect, and it needs no service call. If water appears somewhere you cannot trace, our guide to finding the source of water under the tub walks through the usual suspects.

Check the Air Lines and Push Controls

On the Standard, Zen, and Flow platform, the push controls connect to an air hose that passes through the shell with a back nut. Tighten the push-control air-pipe connections and verify every push control actually works before finalizing the installation, since a loose air pipe is a known install-stage issue. More detail is in our push button air hose article.

Sealing a Push Control Button

Leak Prevention Push Control System for Walk-In Tubs
Chapters in this video
  1. 0:00 Remove Button Collar A technician carefully removes the button collar with a flat edge, taking care not to scratch the tub surface.
  2. 0:12 Apply Silicone Caulk A thin bead of silicone caulk is applied around the rubber gasket and smoothed to ensure complete coverage.
  3. 0:28 Replace Button And Collar The button is replaced, and the collar is snapped back on, then excess silicone is smoothed away.

If a push control button area ever weeps water, the video above shows the leak prevention procedure your installer can follow in a few minutes: Watch: Leak Prevention Push Control System for Walk-In Tubs with chapters and a full transcript.

  1. Remove the button collar carefully with a flat edge, taking care not to scratch the tub surface.
  2. Remove the collar and the button.
  3. Place a thin bead of silicone caulk around the rubber gasket and smooth it to ensure complete coverage.
  4. Replace the button, then snap the collar back on.
  5. Smooth away excess silicone and clean the area with denatured alcohol.

Door Seal Checks

If the seal arrived slightly deformed from shipping, squeeze it with your fingertips and pull it gently away from the door frame to restore its shape, and clean it with rubbing alcohol. The door must close smoothly into a watertight seal. If it does not, re-check leveling before anything else, since leveling is the number one cause of door leaks. Keep the door open when the tub is not in use to preserve the gasket; our door seal care article covers the routine.

One More Leak Preventer: The Hand Shower

Never wall-mount the pull-out hand shower without the barrel extension hose kit. Without it, water drips through the deck insert hole and appears behind or under the tub. The kit's stainless barrel and 5 foot extension hose plug the deck hole: unscrew the mixer, thread the barrel onto the hose end, connect the extension hose to the barrel, seat the barrel in the deck hole, and connect the mixer to the extension hose. See hand shower hose orientation and mount base for photos of the parts.

Common Questions

Is the water test really required?
Yes. It is part of the published installation procedure, and the warranty activation form has your installer confirm the same fill and pump checks. Skipping it is the most common reason a leak is found only after the walls are finished.
Why fill 3 inches above the highest jet?
Filling the tub 3 inches above the highest jet ensures that every jet is submerged and that water pressure is applied to every joint in the hydro and air lines. This allows any loose union or air fitting to reveal itself during the 30-minute standing period and again when the pumps run for another 30 minutes, before the walls are closed up.
Can I run the pumps to test them before the tub is full?
No, you must not run the pumps to test them before the tub is full and the water covers all jets. Running a pump dry causes permanent damage to the pump that is not covered by the warranty. The only exception is the independent foot massage pump, which can run with just the footwell filled.
A union drips when the pump runs. Is the tub defective?
A dripping union when the pump runs almost never indicates a defective tub. This issue is typically caused by shipping vibration or over-tightening, which can shift the O-ring. To resolve this, disassemble the union, re-seat the O-ring, and reassemble it snugly; if the drip is at the heater, also verify that the heater threads match the pipe threads.
Water appears around a push button. What now?
If water appears around a push button, your installer can follow the leak prevention procedure shown in the "Leak Prevention Push Control System for Walk-In Tubs" video. This involves carefully removing the button collar with a flat edge, applying a thin bead of silicone caulk around the rubber gasket, replacing the button and collar, and then smoothing away any excess silicone.
The door leaks during the test. Do I need a new seal?
Check leveling first. Every leg must touch the floor with equal weight, and the door must close smoothly. Most door leaks at install are leveling, not the seal. If a level tub still leaks, clean and re-seat the seal, then contact the team.
Should the test be done outside or in the bathroom?
Whenever possible, perform a full pre-installation water test outside the home or in the garage before the tub is moved into the bathroom. After the tub is in place and connections are made, but before the walls are closed, repeat the fill and pump check in the bathroom to ensure all connections are watertight.
Does the water test count toward the warranty activation checklist?
Yes, the pre-installation water test counts toward the warranty activation checklist. The warranty activation form requires your installer to confirm a watertight door seal after a 20-minute fill and watertight connections after running the hydro and air pumps for 20 minutes. Completing the water test and the warranty activation form together streamlines the process.

Still need help? Open a ticket at ellasbubbles.com/support or call (800) 480-6850.

About this guide. Answers in the Ella’s Bubbles Support Center are compiled from real conversations with tub owners, our technicians’ notes and the product documentation, then reviewed by our team. Tub models and options have evolved over the years, so a detail here may differ slightly from your exact tub. If something looks different on yours, send us your serial number and a specialist will confirm it for your model.

Did this solve your question?

If not, open a ticket and our team will pick it up from here.

Open a Support Ticket